lol
IMO these are several of the things you and/or your gunsmith need to consider BEFORE you choose and install a brake.
* a brake WILL change bbl harmonics. Sometimes for the better,sometimes for the worse.
* a brake MUST be installed concentric with the bbls bore.
* a brake should be chosen with the caliber,bullet weight,and bullet speed in mind.
* for a brake to work at it's very best,the bullet exit hole in the brake should be .040" over the size of the bullet( .???" ) (keep in mind #2)
* if the brand/design of the brake used needs to be indexed to the bore line make sure it is done properly for a right hand or left hand shooter.
* if a brake is installed too tightly it will constrict the bbl/bore and accuracy will be gone.
* AND......if you choose and install a brake simply because it looks "cool",that will be about it's only function.(a JP Brake is down right fuglie and it is the best brake I have ever shot a bullet thru.)
These few things are what I have learned about muzzle brakes having dealt with them over the years.
Read up/study up before you choose. ---SAWMAN
sure I have an opinion and you know what they say " they are like A-holes, everyone has one and they all stink ". first off what caliber are you talking about, what type of stock ( composite/wood/laminate), rifles weight?unless it is a huge african caliber I'd probly leave it alone and spend the money making sure the rifle fits you correctly, avg lop length of pull is now 14 1/4" I believe and may be fine if youre an avg size. a new recoil pad/action/trigger job and bedding will improve accuracy and lessen recoil for less money. if it's a big caliber and a light composite stock I'd opt for a heavier wood laminate stock. remember it's just my opinion and you asked for it. if I want your opinion I'll tell it to you, J.K. let us know which way you go and how it works out.
Sawman, great advice, if you require a muzzle brake. Nacho also has great advice. It really depends on the weapons weight, caliber, the shooter (you), current recoil, and your "love" of the weapon we are talking about. I have a little 44 Mag carbine with 16" barrel that used to rattle your teeth out and move your shoulder blade out of socket after 3-4 rounds, I had it ported by magna port and now it shoots like a .243. We first added a recoil pad before we sent it out for the $250.00 porting job. If the gun is uncomfortable for you to shoot, why shoot it? Many reasons can come into play as to why we keep them. Personally, I was willing to go the extra step with the 44 mag since I'm "IN LOVE" with the little gal. If I had a 7MM mag or 300 Win Mag, it would have a brake or be porting. The thing is, between .243 and .308 (short action calibers) there are plenty of choices that will easily take down any game in North America without dislocating your shoulder or causing you to become a "flincher". Have a trigger job done on it? Hence the reason I do not have anything larger than a .308. The only long action weapon I own is a .25-06, everything else is a short action caliber. If it were me I'd think long and hard about spending $200-400 on a muzzle brake on a weapon that I might not be "IN LOVE" with. You'll have to decide..........
$1200.00 for a Sendero? Are you crazy? Where are you buying guns, Bass Pro at full retail? No wonder most people on the forum are "gun shy" and want to buy the $200.00 Walmart gun.
The Browning BLR I bought about two months ago retails right around $1200-1400, plus tax, plus FFL fee. I bought mine NIB from a distributor on-line, had it shipped to Tampa, paid the FFL $25.00 and I have $827.00 in it.
