No, they aren't identified by a marking. They were produced in three weights of barrels from the factory, light thin walled, medium sporter, and heavy barrel.....
heavy being like a bullbarrel? so how can i tell just by looking at mine what it is? im pretty sure its not thin walled. i have heard some people complaining that they have a thin walled barrel and cannot shoot several rounds in a row without letting it cool down, i have not had a problem with innaccuracy do to shooting a hot barrel like they claim. so it must be at least a medium?
If the gun weighs less than 9 lbs without the scope and more than 7 lbs without the scope you have a medium weight sporter. If you have a heavy barrel it will weigh in excess of 9 or 10 lbs without the scope...
got it thanks
you could also measure bbl diameter and compare to factory specs, but gunboy's method is easier. the thicker diam the bbl the longer it takes to heat up and has less harmonics ( whipping/wave action ) also if you want a longer bbl all that gives is more velocity ( more time for the powder to burn ), but also more whip, given the same bbl diam. so if you want an ultra light thin bbl better off it being short in length. a 22-24" med wt bbl seems a good combo for me, depending on caliber and powder used. theres alot of tweaking with bedding and diff handloads/stocks that can help a whippy gun. brakes can also help but the smith has to realy know what he's doing, not a job I'd give to an avg smithy.
