Try it this way.
Gonna explain this the best i can....ok...
buy one of these, or a hand full, make sure they snap in and out....no twisting kind will work....i buy mine at BPS and Academy, usually $2.99/each...
Once you have this in hand....take your iridescent (see through) nocks out....with the light ON...stick the lighted end of the light into the canal of the nock. Now you have the "depth" set.
Ok, you have your 1/4" dowel....take some sort of fine blade, i use a hack saw blade without the saw.....saw off a piece of the dowel 1/8" to 1/4" long....slide this piece into the arrow shaft....(you may have to sand it accordingly, or fold the rough edges into the shaft to make it tighter.....you'll need a good bit of friction between the dowel and the inside of the shaft.) Now you have the dowel inside the shaft, flush with the end of the arrow. Take your LIGHTED nock...(nock and light)...and push the dowel piece down into the shaft until your nock is 1/16" from being flushed up tight to the shaft as normal. Once you push far enough, leaving that 1/16"!!!!.....pull the nock and light back out. Take your fast drying super glue, and carefully drop 1 or 2 drops straight down inside the shaft, onto the dowel....try you best to not let it get on the inner shaft.....let it dry for however long your glue will take to be completely dry!
after drying...
Take the light out of the nock, pull it out to turn it off.....put everything back in place with the light off!....you now have roughly a 1/8" gap between the nock seat and shaft.....nock the arrow and shoot......the string pressure snaps everything together....boom, lighted nock that will not go off.
These lights come in green, yellow, and red....red is brightest, then yellow, green......btw...don't get ahead of me and go trying to glue the light into the nock.....it will work about 5% of the time....those plastics are too sensitive. The only downside is after a shot you'll have to take the nock out to reset.
the dowel is like a buck 50 at walmart. it gets addicting. just remember when you nock the arrow you'll probably have to hold the sides of the nock to push it on the string...otherwise it may trigger...lemme know if u have any questions....
KIP
Thanks for the good info. I'm gonna go to BPS this week and pick up 3 or 4. Then, I'll practice on some of my older Carbon Fury arrows, before I go to adding to my PSE X Weaves.
Good luck
I got that info from a friend on GON I tried the gule and drill way but they break way to easy.
I'll let ya'll know how it goes.
drilling a hole thru the nock makes sense to get more visable light but I would think it would also weaken the nock cosiderably. I've only gotten 1 deer with a bow and stuck him right to a tree so he couldn't even fall down and was real easy to find and req'd no tracking. if you can do it like that I'd highly recomend it. odds of ever doing it again zero. shot 3-4 rabbits and a shartload of squirrels that would raid my garden, but also missed and lost or broke alot of arrows shooting at at squirrels. that was back when you could get a carbon arrow for around 5 bucks plus the cost of the arrow head but the only way I found to be able to hit and kill a squirrel was with the largest diameter cutting blade mechanical I could find, so each squirrel killed ruined a mechanical head ended up costing alot more than a 22 but back then we only had 1/8 of an acre so guns were out and had to be carefull with the arrows, but a 1 1/2 " mechanical head just about cuts them in 2 pieces and never had one move after being hit. and hitting a squirrel with a bow is real satisfying and a big confidence booster for deer hunting.hope to be able to get back in that kinda form by sept/oct.
