I bought a TC Omega and it had the see through rings with an older Bushnell scope. I replaced this setup with Weaver rings and a Redfield 3-9x40. To make it fit I had to remove the rear iron sight. I have a few questions:
Does anyone use both sights nowadays? Im considering grabbing some see through rings to try with the Redfield, but in all reality I dont think ill be using them to much.
Also is there any science to mounting the scope perfectly in between both rings or just eyeball it till the crosshairs seem even.
How would you approach sighting in the scope as well? I was considering using a bore sight to get started and go from there.
Thanks for the heads up!
if the eye relief (the distance from the rear lens to your eye) is too close and needs to go forward then the rear iron sight may have to go, or you could raise the scope up with taller rings and get it up and over the rear iron sight. the second method would likely make you have to lift your face up off the stock to see thru the new raised position of the scope. mount the scope in the rings and leave them loose enough to move the scope forward and back with your fingers.next close your eyes and mount the gun into YOUR shooting position, well into shoulder and face on the stock COMFORTABLY, now open your eyes. if you cannot see thru the scope clearly then it may need to be moved forward or back. the scope lowest to the bbl is most accurate but you do not want to be looking thru the scope and seeing the iron sights, so I often remove them entirely, clean the threaded holes with acetone or brake cleaner and fill with clear silicone. (save all parts and label whatever you put them in). a smith can mount the scope and use a level to get the horizontal reticle lines of the scope perfectly level (from the bench). I usually level them by eye as everyone holds a gun differently, and have been told they are canted slightly to the right, but they look good to me when holding the mounted gun.a slightly canted horizontal cross-hair is not gonna make a big difference until you get to "long ranges" you can buy a scope level and mount it on the bbl if you like gadgets and have the money, but it's not req'd imo for hunting. keep repeating the close eyes,mount gun , open eyes and see how it looks feels and adjust until it's just right for you. some people love those see thru mounts, but there is only one correct mounting position and you will either have to lift your face up to see thru the scope or scrunch down to see the iron sights. one MAY be correct or both may be wrong. imo it would be very unlikely and consider yourself lucky if both heights fit you perfectly correctly. NOW to zero the gun. if it's a bolt/muzzle gun start at 25 yd's with a large unused piece of cardboard and a target in the center. put the gun in a rest, remove the bolt/breechplug and look thru the bbl (from rear to front) and line up the bbl with the bullseye, now adjust the scope (without moving the gun/scope) so the crosshairs are on the bulls eye also. this should get you on paper anyway. a lazer boresighter will do basically the same thing and you can buy one or pay a smith to do it, a waste of money imo. when zeroed at 25 yd's that should put you close at 100 yds. re-zero at 100 yd's or wherever you want.
Excellent information. Much appreciated. Thanks.
I decided to just remove the iron sights and go with a scope. I'm also considering downsizing to a 2-7x32 scope on the muzzleloader. Thoughts?
I tend to like lower power scope than most people for all my scoped rifles except dedicated target rifles.
For a deer or hog size target out to 100 yards I think 5 or 6 power is enough.
I just put a 1.5-4X scope on my Marlin 30-30 and I expect that's enough power out to 100 yards.
BTW. I personally feel that clearity is more important than magnification with scopes.
