Modifying a 2-man ladder stand?

I lean mine back more than normal just so I'm not sitting straight up. I also bring 1 of the round seat pads to sit on. I've been toying with the idea of bending some pipe to make a foot rest on mine too. This is on my cheap ones. My buddy has a family traditions double and that thing is great. We've been talking about getting a few more.

not sure how far you want to go with it but here goes: 1 replace ALL that cheap hardware with galvanized steel nuts bolts washers and lock washers. it will hake it stronger and harder to get apart to steal, also harder to assemble and set up. 2 fill all hollow tubes with blow in foam (really great stuff) that will make it stronger, quieter and let in less water, slow down pitting corrosion if you're gonna leave it outside permanently like me. 3 the bench seat attaches with 2 holes for bolts, ignore the holes closest to the tree and drill a second set in front. this will move the seat out 1-1 1/2", it makes more of a diff than it sounds. 4 attach the stand and ladder to the tree with a fairly thick 1/4" or so vinyl coated braided cable and cable tighteners, these are extremely strong and will not rot like nylon ratchet straps and can't be cut with a knife and stolen. if a thief wants it he will need to have tools and spend more time. be sure to adjust (loosen) them as the tree grows. at first I attach with the ratchet straps just to hold the stand against the tree,(and leave them until they rot and fall off then do the cables. 5 drill another hole thru the flip up handrail (optional) and put in a 1/4" nut and bolt this will prevent the rail from being able to flip up, but I never used that feature anyway and it makes it much stronger to lean on while hunting. I never had any problem going under it to get in/out of the stand, it makes a steadier rest to shoot from , and unless shooting a bow from a seated position you should have plenty of clearance for a bow. I wouldn't want to try it myself but would say it's strong enough to hang from. 6 the footrest, get 2 pieces of marine plywood app 2-4" shorter than the width of the platform 1/2-3/4" thick with a piece of galvanized steel sandwiched between them, you can fasten with rivets or nus and bolts. 2 -3 heavy galvanized hinges drilled through the floor frame of the stand and bolted into the platform and the rest so it lays flat against the floor of the stand when not in use and you will want it to open to app 45 degrees when in use. to do this drill 2 more holes app 10"-12" up on the legs supporting the seat and put in an eye bolt with the round eye facing forward and a corresponding eye bolt on the foot rest. use a piece of the vinyl wrapped wire cable to hold the footrest open at the desired angle and it should be strong enough to stand on and fold flat against the floor when not in use. 7 the rest is now for comfort and camo. those closed cell long swimming pool noodles cut to the length of the arms rest,and backrest spilt down the middle and fitted over the metal bars make it very comfy/quiet and a great gun rest. you scan spray paint them camo and zip tie in place. 8 additional closed cell cushions for the bench help a lot, these can be zip tied also.( 1/4 - 1" plastic fence for support with a nylon type camo cloth zip tied around the back and both sides and a separate one hanging from the hand rail in front and you are done. that is going all out, you can do as much or as little as you want. doing it all will be app another 50-75$ depending on materials and paint. assemble as much as you can at home, it's much easier. and be sure to have AT LEAST 1-2 more people to put it up. I put mine up 100% assembled alone and it was a bear of a 2 day project getting it far into the woods in 1 piece and hoisting it with a rope/chain and come along. do the paint and foam outside as it is messy. it's not as bad as it sounds and you will have never hunted from anything as comfortable before.

not sure how far you want to go with it but here goes: 1 replace ALL that cheap hardware with galvanized steel nuts bolts washers and lock washers. it will hake it stronger and harder to get apart to steal, also harder to assemble and set up. 2 fill all hollow tubes with blow in foam (really great stuff) that will make it stronger, quieter and let in less water, slow down pitting corrosion if you're gonna leave it outside permanently like me. 3 the bench seat attaches with 2 holes for bolts, ignore the holes closest to the tree and drill a second set in front. this will move the seat out 1-1 1/2", it makes more of a diff than it sounds. 4 attach the stand to the tree with a fairly thick 1/4" or so vinyl coated braided cable and cable tighteners, these are extremely strong and will not rot like nylon ratchet straps and can't be cut with a knife and stolen. if a thief wants it he will need to have tools and spend more time. be sure to adjust (loosen) them as the tree grows. at first I attach with the ratchet straps just to hold the stand against the tree, then do the cables. 5 drill another hole thru the flip up handrail (optional) and put in a 1/4" nut and bolt this will prevent the rail from being able to flip up, but I never used that feature anyway and it makes it much stronger to lean on while hunting. I never had any problem going under it to get in/out of the stand, it makes a steadier rest to shoot from , and unless shooting a bow from a seated position you should have plenty of clearance for a bow. I wouldn't want to try it myself but would say it's strong enough to hang from. 6 the footrest, get 2 pieces of marine plywood app 2-4" shorter than the width of the platform 1/2-3/4" thick with a piece of galvanized steel sandwiched between them, you can fasten with rivets or nus and bolts. 2 -3 heavy galvanized hinges drilled through the floor frame of the stand and bolted into the platform and the rest so it lays flat against the floor of the stand when not in use and you will want it to open to app 45 degrees when in use. to do this drill 2 more holes app 10"-12" up on the legs supporting the seat and put in an eye bolt with the round eye facing forward and a corresponding eye bolt on the foot rest. use a piece of the vinyl wrapped wire cable to hold the footrest open at the desired angle and it should be strong enough to stand on and fold flat against the floor when not in use. 7 the rest is now for comfort and camo. those closed cell long swimming pool noodles cut to the length of the arms rest,and backrest spilt down the middle and fitted over the metal bars make it very comfy/quiet and a great gun rest. you scan spray paint them camo and zip tie in place. 8 additional closed cell cushions for the bench help a lot, these can be zip tied also.( 1/4 - 1" plastic fence for support with a nylon type camo cloth zip tied around the back and both sides and a separate one hanging from the hand rail in front and you are done. that is going all out, you can do as much or as little as you want. doing it all will be app another 50-75$ depending on materials and paint. assemble as much as you can at home, it's much easier. and be sure to have AT LEAST 1-2 more people to put it up. I put mine up 100% assembled alone and it was a bear of a 2 day project getting it far into the woods in 1 piece and hoisting it with a rope/chain and come along. do the paint and foam outside as it is messy. it's not as bad as it sounds and you will have never hunted from anything as comfortable before.

That all makes good sense! Thanks! How about some pictures the next time you're out to your stand? Also, Iluv2hunt if you're going to do this, you ought to do a "Step by Step" with photos so we can all enjoy and copy it.

I can go by the write up above but photos would make it a lot easier :toast

I hate to type that much! the first time I posted it there were pics I believe and have since deleted them from my phone. water may be up a rung or 2 now. doubt I'll be getting out there soon as I re-tweaked my knee felling a big oak branch like 2 days after not needing my cane, will be on ice and heat the rest of the day. it's really easy and straight forward.