martin has a great product for the price as well.
a buddy of mine just told me that one of his friends has a new PSE for sale, his father got into a car wreck and his shoulder is screwed up and wont be able to shoot his bow again. he said hes got about 1500 in it and is selling it for 500. i can put you in touch with the guy who told me about the deal, and you can go from there. i think the bow is last years model.Hey Crock, who does this remind you of?
J/kin
hey, if i had the money i would probably have bought a bowtech, pse or matthews, but mine was a gift and it does fine. some dont have the same budget to work with. its cool though, it is still very capable.
Thanks for all the opinions. I understand that I'll need to go in and shoot em to find out which one feels right, but I didn't want to go into it blind. I like the feel of my Parker, but I know there are other faster, lighter, and quieter bows out there. Plus, the faster speeds will let me drop a couple pins since the 300+ fps bows use the same pin for 15-30 yards, or so I've read. I'm also looking to increase the draw weights. When I got my Parker, 60# draw seemed heavy enough. Now I can shoot it for hours on my range without getting sore shoulders 2 years later, so I figured maybe it's time to step it up a notch.
Don't get all hung up on speed. Speed isn't everything, just make sure that the whole set up is right, including arrow weights, spline, and such.
+1 kinetic energy is more important.
sound is pretty important, or lack thereof.
The bow that "feels" the best plus one you can shoot and be the most accurate with is the bow for you and this can only be done by trying them out.Try to find a shop that would allow you to shoot several different bows and dont get to much going with speed as said by others.Accuracy and a razor sharp broadhead placed into the vitals it what is important.Speed means nothing more than a flatter shooting arrow!
